Sivota to Syracusa
It has been some
time since I have had the opportunity to update the blog primarily because we
have been at Sea!
We left Sivota on
the 31st July bound for Syracusa in Sicily. The forecast was for
Force 3/4 which would have been perfect
and it was for a short while we were sailing nicely. We had two visitors on
board Sean, who has sailed with us before and Jim who had never sailed in his
life. It has been some time since we have done a long passage and typically everyone
was feeling a little queasy. I had just finished reading a book by Pete Goss
who confesses to feeling a little green every time he has started a long
passage, so this is perfectly normal. I find the best thing is to stay up on
deck and after about 12 hours or so I have found my sea legs again! Jim however
was really feeling rough and to add to our woes the so called F3/4 forecast
turned out to be F6/7 with gusts of 40 knots. Not a problem.. we reefed down
early and were sailing nicely but Jim was feeling worse for wear and even John
was poorly! So our watch system went out the window and we just concentrated on
sailing through the night with those feeling up to it. We have an alternator
attached to our prop so when we are sailing over 5 knots it is able to add
power to our batteries but John does not like to run it for extended periods
without giving it a rest so come five o clock in the morning we decided to run
the engine for an hour or so. However after 30 minutes the engine
(affectionately named Dorothy… it is a Perkins engine) decided to stop! We
decided it was a fuel issue and as we could sail we figured we would sail on
and investigate when the sea state and the wind had abated.
As soon as
possible John changed the fuel filter which was dirty and I began to worry that
the 370litres of diesel that I had put in a few days earlier was dirty fuel! We
got the engine started for it to last 10 minutes or so before it stopped again.
John checked the new filter it seemed fine but he surmised that air must be
getting into the system so changed the seal on the filter but we decided to
take no chances we would sail into Syracusa which is a lovely anchorage and not
start the engine until we were ready to lay the anchor.
By this time the
wind had dropped and the last 20 miles were slow and laborious we spent those
eight hours going through the routine to anchor under sail in our heads. It
went like clockwork and we arrived in the Bay around 19.30 on the 2nd
of August … John’s birthday!
Syracusa to Malta
Sean and Jim were
still with us for the trip over to Malta. There was little wind so we had to
resort to ‘Dorothy’ which was a shame but gave us a chance to ensure that the
work John did on her in Syracusa had fixed the problem. Finally after five or
six hours the wind veered and we were able to sail .. Whoopee! We slowed down
as we got closer to Valetta and drifted for a few hours to enable us to get in
at a decent time for customs etc. We finally tied up in Msida Marina at around
13.00. As we came in stern to I threw a line to the guy on the quay who I
thought was there to help us come in. I was a little taken aback when he said
‘what do you want me to do with it?!’. John was shouting from the cockpit ‘are
we tied on yet?’ and I had to leap ashore with no shoes onto a boiling quay and
sort out the lines and lazy line. The guy explained that he was just security
he knew nothing about boats!
We enjoyed Malta
we stayed at Msida Marina for a week. Sean and Jim were with us for a couple of
days before returning to Ireland. It was roasting hot but lots of history
attached to the Island and John and I went to the Naval museum and something
called the Malta Experience where a guide took us to the hospital founded by
the knights Templars. The guide was excellent and I would recommend it. We also
hired a car went to Medina the old capital which again is worth a visit. Malta
is only a small island so it was quite easy to get around. It also helps that
everyone speaks English. We met up with Pat and Mario, sister and brother in
law of our good friends Eddie and Yvonne from Greece and had a really good
evening with them. Outside Valetta the price of a drink was very reasonable
though we found Malta in general to be quite good value. You don’t go there for
a beach holiday though … there are very few beaches and I heard on British
family bemoaning this fact. They really should have done their homework before booking
their holiday!
Knocking on the door in Malta
Malta to Cagliari
We left Malta on
the 12th August and were bound for Favignana Sicily. There was very
little wind so we had to motor. After a couple of hours I noticed we were
overheating so we stopped and John checked the impellor …. It was knackered. We
have a Garoni water pump and it seems to eat impellors …we always carry a three
or four spares. Problem sorted we were on our way ..still no wind. We motored
for 30 hours before finally anchoring in Punta ta Longa, Favignana, a nice
anchorage.
I had been telling
John for a while I thought the stern heads were getting a little smelly. John
has no sense of smell so is oblivious to such things! Sure enough the holding
tank was blocked ..not a pleasant job but probably more out of frustration and
the thought of how he was going to unblock the damn thing he gave the holding
tank a couple of wacks with a hammer and it was sorted. That was a relief!
We set off for
Cagliari with still no sign of wind just the familiar drone of ‘Dorothy’ who
was behaving beautifully now. We tried sailing off the wind but made no headway
so it was back to the engine. After 30 hours we dropped anchor in Cap Carbonara
a nice anchorage in Sardinia. It was busy and as we dropped anchor and put up
our anchor ball we noticed we had started a trend and several boats around us
were searching for their anchor balls and putting them up! Whilst it was busy
when we arrived a lot of the smaller boats all disappear before dark so it was
quiet and we could amuse ourselves by watching the yachts come in and discuss
their anchor technique. One yacht sent down a diver to check the anchor and he
was a good hour in the water! We have a new anchor, the Manson Supreme, and we
are very pleased with it. We set an anchor watch program on the tablet for
overnight and you are able to see exactly where the anchor swung and it will
alert you if you drag. The system seems to work well. The water in this
anchorage was so clear that you could see the anchor and the chain.
We arrived at the
Marina Del Sole in Cagliari on the 16th and were not surprised to
see that nothing had changed. We have been to this Marina now on three
occasions. They are very laid back and it is run by Massimo and his Dad
Antonello. You can hire a car there for 7 euros an hour so we were able to
provision up. It was quite nice just to chill for a couple of days. However
having done so much motoring we were forced to make use of the fuel quay. Fuel
in Italy is not cheap 270 litres cost 502 euros!! OUCH!!
Sardinia to Menorca
As we left
Cagliari we looked for an anchorage in Southern Sardinia and eventually settled
on Teulada Bay. We stayed there two days hoping for favourable wind and finally
set off for Mahon on 21st August early in the morning. We motored
out for an hour then set sail but with NW4/5 it was difficult to hold our
course for Mahon this was not the wind that had been forecast! Eventually the
wind veered on course for Mahon. Menorca is an expensive place to stay and we
decided to give Mahon a miss.. we have been there before and we were not sure
that we would get an anchorage in La Mola at the time we were due to arrive. We
eventually arrived at Cala Porto Addaya
at dawn. It was a tricky place to enter and there seemed to be a lot of
red buoys dotted about the channel entrance so we turned around found a spot to
anchor and to get our head down for a couple of hours. When we woke up a little
bit more refreshed and tried the entrance a second time we realised the red
buoys that had caused us the worry were in fact placed to stop people anchoring
and the channel was quite easy to pick out. We have friends in Addaya, Jeff and
Anne Cook and we were lucky that they were just arriving so we treated
ourselves to a couple of days in the Marina at a cost of 85 euros a day it is
the cheapest marina in Menorca. The people are very friendly and we enjoyed our
stay there. It was good to see Jeff and Anne again after such a long time.
We left Addaya and
had a good sail to the South West tip of Menorca, Cala de Son Saura. When we
left we sailing along when we saw what we thought at first were fishing nets
but on closer inspection we discovered they were pot plants and over the course
of about 4 miles we came across 12 plants. I think they must have fallen off a
cargo ship but it was a bit of a weird sight!
Ibiza to Cartegena
We anchored in
several Cala’s off Ibiza. Anchoring in Spain is not as easy as it used to be,
several bays have put moorings in and they like you to anchor in sand if you
anchor in weed you could be liable for a fine. We found several though:
Cala around the
back of Isla Moltana
Cala Horts
We heard a Mayday
whilst negotiating our way past Mallorca to Ibiza. A fishing boat had caught
fire and a British yacht, Endeavour, had gone to their assistance taking on
board eleven persons. John and I listened to the skipper of the yacht talking
to the Rescue Services. He was sailing just off Formentara and the rescue
services asked him to bring his eleven fishermen to Ibiza Town to drop them off
which he duly did. I hope they waived his mooring fees in light of how
accommodating he had been! We did hear the Head of Rescue Services radio him
personally and thank him for his help which was good to hear.
We passed by loads
of big ships on AIS through the night and some more helpful than others. John
radioed one Tanker to ask him if he could alter course so that he would pass on
our port side and not hit us! His response was ‘what is your problem?’ John’s
reply was ’if you keep on your present course you will hit us!!’ After checking
his AIS he did agree to alter course but it seemed like he was not really
keeping a good watch. We finally arrived in Cartegena on Sept 1st
This is what we look like on AIS!
Cartegena to Gibraltar
We liked Cartegena
it is a real Spanish town packed full of history. We found a fish restaurant
where the locals ate although we had to have two ‘goes’ at getting any fish. We
went there on a Monday and the waitress immediately came up to us and tried to
explain ‘ lunes ‘ after much waving of hands and gesticulation the penny
dropped. It was Monday … no fishing on Sunday so no fish Monday! We went back
on Tuesday and had a good fish meal at a reasonable price it was also good to
watch the fishermen go out. Many of them tow a smaller boat behind them that
has numerous halogen lights on board that they put on to attract the fish.
These can be a real pain when you sail at night all you can see is what looks
like Blackpool illuminations bobbing about in the water and you have great
difficulty working out where they are going. A lot more fishermen have AIS now
which has made it easier!
Whilst we have
been away relations between Spain and Gibraltar have soured so when we left
Categena we were a little perturbed to find that we were being followed by not
one but five navy boats all seemingly going our way!! It turned out to be a
training exercise …. I think!
We are now in
Gibraltar in Marina Bay and so close to the runway you can nearly touch it!
When you come in here you are told that if the lights are flashing you must not
enter the Marina… easy to see why! We arrived on the 7th September
and Gibraltar National Day is on the 10th. A national holiday and we
were woken up to the sound of one of the guys on a different pontoon playing reggae
and wishing everyone a ‘Happy National Day’ . Everyone wears red and white and
a good day is had by all partying well into the early hours. There was a free
concert in Casements Square with some good music. The place is still adorned
with flags and union jacks and there is a very strong feeling that they are
Gibraltarian not Spanish.
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Leaving Cartegena we were followed by five Spanish navy vessels! |